2007 Chereau-Carre Chateau de Chasseloir Comte Leloup de Chasseloir Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Cuvee des Ceps Centenaires
Sevre Et Maine Muscadet Muscadet, Pays Nantais, Loire Valley, France
$17
Latest rendition of the Loire wine with the longest name as well as one of the region’s most distinguished track records (for more about which, see my report in issue 172), the 2007 Chateau de Chasseloir Comte Leloup de Chasseloir Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Cuvee des Ceps Centenaires once again represents a sensational value. Scents of sea breeze; honeydew and musk melon; and fresh lemon lead into an expansive yet persistently refreshing palate, featuring rich hints of nut oils beneath bright, juicy, brine-crusted waves of melon and citrus. The finishing amalgam of musk melon, lemon, salt, chalk, and chicken stock is invigorating and lip-smacking as well as strikingly tactile in its sense of minerality. Close your eyes and just try making yourself believe that salt water and chalk have not somehow been transported into this wine – not that I’m letting my skeptical guard slip without a fight! Expect this – based on an impeccable track record – to be worth following for at least the next ten years, not that you should wait one month let alone year longer than necessary to make its acquaintance. Somehow I missed out on tasting the 2008 rendition of this classic cuvee from ungrafted vines, a deficiency I might have to wait until 2012 and a full tour of the Loire to remedy.
From the Chereau-Carre family of Muscadets, I as usual tasted their recent releases that feature prominently in the U.S., market, two of these being among the most remarkable wines in the Loire. Score 92. -D.S. (eRobertParker.com, #190, Aug 2010)
2004 Chereau-Carre Le Clos du Chateau l'Oiseliniere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie
Sevre Et Maine Muscadet Muscadet, Pays Nantais, Loire Valley, France
$30
The 2004 Le Clos du Chateau l’Oiseliniere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie is once again an impressive and unusually ripe and lush wine for its appellation, yet one that preserves vivid salinity and a somehow crystalline, ore-like and tactile sense of mineral enhancement that I otherwise associate with great whites of Austria’s Wachau. A stronger than (for this cuvee) usual citricity – suggestive of lemon, lime, and tangerine – lends this a vivacity and practically face-smacking (not to mention lip-smacking) brightness, and while there is palpable density present as well as the aforementioned sense of fullness and lushness, there is also a lovely sense of levity that helps reel you back in for the next unforgetable sip.
From the Chereau-Carre family of Muscadets, I as usual tasted their recent releases that feature prominently in the U.S., market, two of these being among the most remarkable wines in the Loire. Score 92. -D.S. (eRobertParker.com, #190, Aug 2010)
2009 Chereau-Carre Chateau de la Chesnaire Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie
Sevre Et Maine Muscadet Muscadet, Pays Nantais, Loire Valley, France
$13
The 2009 Chateau de la Chesnaie Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie smells unusually for its appellation of winter pear, pumpkin, and pineapple, tinged with and hints of sea breeze. Atypically lush in texture for this cuvee – not to mention luscious – it reminds me slightly of a Gruner Veltliner in its alternation of tropical and northerly fruits, its hints of green bean, black pepper, nutmeg, and salt, and its persistent, tactile sense of finishing piquancy, alkalinity, and stoniness. Not one of your ultra-refreshing let alone light renditions of Muscadet, this outstanding value will prove versatile at table for at least the next couple of years, but in circumstances where you might ordinarily elect to open a wine of another genre.
From the Chereau-Carre family of Muscadets, I as usual tasted their recent releases that feature prominently in the U.S., market, two of these being among the most remarkable wines in the Loire. Score 90. -D.S. (eRobertParker.com, #190, Aug 2010)
92 Points
Chereau-Carre
2002 Chateau de Chasseloir Comte Leloup de Chasseloir Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Cuvee des Ceps Centenaires
$17
The 2002 Chateau de Chasseloir Comte Leloup de Chasseloir Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Cuvee des Ceps Centenaires issues from 100 and more year old vines in a phylloxera-proof limestone-rich terroir unusual for Muscadet. It is never released with fewer than three years in bottle, and in good vintages will age fascinatingly for more than a decade. It also represents one of the most remarkable wine values on the planet, and with the current release being from the great 2002 vintage, readers should rush out and buy it. That said, not every taster might love the style, so please pay no attention to that score, and read carefully what follows. Vivid chalk dust, white truffle (the ‘96, too, had this!), peaches, herbs, and (Chablis-like) chicken stock practically overwhelm the nose. Lean, bright, focused and implacably mineral (wet stones, chalk, salt) in the mouth, it features flavors of green tomato, grapefruit and under-ripe peach, with subtly bitter peach pit and grapefruit zest very much part of the package. Finishing blazingly bright, this wine would wake you up over breakfast, or for that matter in the dead of the night. - D.S (W.A. #172, Aug 2007)
90 Points
Chereau-Carre
2005 Chateau de la Chesnaire Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie
$13 The 2005 Chateau de la Chesnaire Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie smells fetchingly of peaches and green apple with diverse herbs and flowers. In the mouth, a chalky, brothy character suggests Chablis-like expression of minerals. Faintly bitter notes of wet stone, chalk, iodine, apple pit and peach kernel inform a strikingly long finish, but they cannot subdue this wine’s infectious, primary fruit juiciness, and the overall effect is invigorating and refreshing, so much so, in fact, that if you don’t find yourself going back for the next sip, somebody should check your pulse! - D.S (W.A. #172, Aug 2007)
93 points
Chereau-Carre
2002 Le Clos du Chateau l'Oiseliniere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie
$30 The 2002 Le Clos du Chateau l’Oiseliniere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie – grown in a sheltered, riverside site of eroded orthogneiss and schiste – is one of, if not the finest Muscadet I have ever tasted, and well worth its (only relatively) exalted price. The nose is greeted by a great Riesling-like combination of citrus, herbs, musk, pit fruits, and an ineffable, amazing mineral piquancy. Firm, bright, and insistently juicy in the mouth, this displays spectacular length of juicy, salt- and fruit pit-accented lime, nectarine, quince, and Persian melon. “Salt” in fact completely fails to do the savory minerality on display here any justice. The Ceps Centenaires bottling may have more sheer grip and mineral mass, but this has more polish and class. Don’t miss any of these wines! - D.S (W.A. #172, Aug 2007)
From The Wine Spectator
Best Value
86 Points
Chéreau Carré
Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie de la Chesnaie
2006
This is plump and forward, with notes of lemon verbena, grapefruit and honeysuckle. Drink now. 15,000 cases made. -J.M., Wine Spectator (July 31, 2007)
90 Points
Chéreau-Carré
Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Le Clos du Château l'Oiselinière
2002
$30
Still going strong, with nice concentration to its lemon peel, sea salt, dried grapefruit and mineral notes. Plenty of vibrancy on the finish. Impressive for its age. Drink now. 1,175 cases made. -J.M. (Dec 15, 2006)
87 Points
Chereau-Carre
Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Chateau de la Chesnaie
2004
"Best Values"
Bright and crunchy, with lime, floral and chalk notes. Crisp, refreashing finish. Drink now. 10,000 cases made. -J.M. (September 30th, 2005)
90 Points Chereau-Carre Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Chateau de Chasseloir 2002 "Smart Buys" Offers a rare explosiveness, with concentrated lemon peel, grapefruit, honeysuckle, mineral and brine notes. The racey acidity carries it effortlessly, while a second wave of fruit emerges on the finish. Hard for Muscadet to be better than this. Drink now through 2004. 15,000 cases made. -J.M. (July 31, 2003)
89 Points Chereau-Carre Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Chateau de la Chesnaie 2002 Bright, round and exuberant, with lemon peel, floral, sea salt and pink grapefruit notes that bounce around while remianing harmoniuos. Long, juicy finish leaves you salivating for more. Drink now. 8,000 cases made. -J.M. (July 31, 2003)
88 Points Chereau-Carre Muscadet de Serve et Maine Les Vergers 2002 Solid Muscadet, with a lovely array of lime, honeysuckle, citrus peel and brine notes. Long, pure, steely finish is really, really nice. Drink now. 10,000 cases made. -J.M. (July 31, 2003)
