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>Printer Friendly Reviews, Issue #158
All reviews were written by Josh Raynolds and were published in issue 158 (Sept./Oct. ‘11) of Steven Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar. Original reviews can be found online at www.wineaccess.com/expert/tanzer (subscription required). Tasting notes, wine and winery names, and technical information appear as published on www.wineaccess.com/expert/tanzer and may contain errors in spelling and content. The wines were tasted in the summer of 2011 and reflect vintages that were current at the time.
By Josh Raynolds
I was presented with more wines for this year's coverage of Spain than I've ever seen before. And that's at every price point. Most of the importers and retailers to whom I spoke while working on this year's piece admitted that sales have slowed at the upper end, which is in fact the case with wine across the board. But at the entry level especially, and up to about $20, Spain is rolling right along. This probably has something to do with the buzz surrounding the two most recent vintages, 2009 and 2010, which have both been eagerly awaited following the mostly lackluster 2008s and 2007s, which were themselves preceded by the average 2006s.
Spain, like almost all of Europe, enjoyed--if that's the right word--a warm to hot growing season and harvest in 2009, conditions that in my view play particularly well into the hands of producers who specialize in easy-drinking, fruit-forward wines meant to be drunk on release or within a few years of bottling. Hot vintages typically mean low acidity, elevated alcohol and loose-knit structure, none of those factors being very conducive to ageworthy wine. Longevity is clearly a non-issue for the vast majority of wine lovers who are looking for maximum value, especially when it comes to red wines, and that's a game that Spain continues to pretty much own these days. There are plenty of excellent, under-$15 red wines being made around the world today that would shame the wines that people happily paid $25 or more for a decade ago, but no country is producing as many right now as Spain.
And on the white wine front, I'm hard-pressed to think of a more dramatic reversal of fortune than what has occurred in Spain. Only a decade or so ago most of the white Spanish wines found on retail shelves in the U.S. were next to undrinkable. There were the random white Riojas that were either inoffensive or eccentrically oxidative but that was about it. Wines from Rueda, Rias Baixas and the Basque country were basically non-existent here and for many winos the very term "Spanish white wine" was cause for alarm.
How things change. Right now, one could easily argue that Spain is the best source for vibrant, pure white wines of any country on earth. The best white wines from Spain's northern regions can stand toe-to-toe with those from anywhere, as I was reminded over the last few months. And the value delivered by many top-notch Spanish whites is really remarkable.
On a downbeat note, those 2007 and 2008 red wines I mentioned earlier are a distinctly mixed bag. Rotten weather and resulting vineyard maladies in both vintages conspired to produce wines that are often lean, mean and green. The best producers, whose wines tend to be the focus of the IWC, made the necessary sacrifices in the vineyards and cellar to make respectable and even excellent wines, but these are years that I would approach with a jaundiced eye. As with all difficult vintages there are a number of wines that are successful by any measure, and, as always, there's a better than good chance that they'll be ignored by the larger market, which will subscribe to the usual simple math of "2007 and 2008 = bad" without considering the individual wines. That can be a good thing for savvy wine lovers who prefer to drink wine rather than read vintage charts, because a number of really good '08s and '07s are already being discounted in the retail market. Keep your eyes and mind open and you can score some outstanding wines for far less than they're worth.
Notes on many more new releases from Spain will follow in Issue 159.
94 points
Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri
1999 Rioja Gran Reserva($90)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(86% tempranillo, 12% garnacha and 2% graciano, rasied in all new French oak): Bright ruby. Pungent red berries, cherry compote, licorice and musky underbrush on the nose, with sexy rose and oak spice qualities gaining strength with air. Broad and fleshy on entry, then more taut in the mid-palate, offering densely packed black raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors. Fine-grained tannins add grip and focus to the impressively long, seamless finish. This is complex enough to drink now but has the depth and balance to repay lots of patience.
92 points
Conde de Hervias
2005 Mencos Rioja Reserva($32)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(100% tempranillo): Bright violet; looks a lot younger than it is. Exotic aromas of cherry-vanilla, black raspberry, fruitcake and mocha. Lush and palate-coating, with excellent depth and clarity to its sweet dark fruit flavors. Plush, seamless and ready to drink, with a long, sweet finish featuring energetic cherry and spice notes.
92 points
Do Ferreiro
2010 Albarino Rias Baixas($28)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Light, bright gold. Juicy, lively and intense, with highly fragrant, complex flavors of lime, lemongrass, fresh pineapple and minerals. Offers a suave combination of depth and vivacity, and noteworthy precision to its sweet, mineral-accented tropical and citrus fruit flavors. Impressively long on the finish, with the mineral and floral notes echoing.
92 points
Dominio de Bebei
2007 Lapena Ribeira Sacra Blanco($75)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(100% godello): Bright yellow-gold. Pear skin, quince, jasmine, honey and vanilla on the fragrant nose. Taut, refreshingly bitter citrus pith and toasty lees flavors give way to sweeter melon and peach with air, with floral and spice notes adding complexity. A pungent, waxy note carries through the very long, smoky, taut finish. For all this wine's power I was most impressed by its energy and precision.
92 points
Domino de Bebei
2007 Lalama Ribeira Sacra($35)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(85% mencia, 7% garnacha, 6% brancello and 2% mouraton): Bright ruby. Extremely fresh, mineral-accented red berry and floral aromas are complicated by sexy Asian spices and incense. Lively and precise in the mouth, with energetic raspberry and cherry flavors lifted by tangy acidity. Shows very good clarity and snap on the finish, leaving behind cherry and star anise notes.
92 points
Dominio de Bebei
2006 Mouraton Ribeira Sacra($55)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(mouraton is regional dialect for alicante bouschet): Inky purple. Blackberry, cherry-cola, Indian spices and a licorice nuance on the nose. Bright, sweet and high-pitched, with striking intensity to its dark berry and floral flavors complemented by coconut and minerals. Packs a serious punch but clocks in at a mere 12.5% alcohol. Finishes bright and very long, with lingering spiciness and dark fruit character.
92 points
Dominio de Bebei
2005 Brancellao Ribeira Sacra($75)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Vivid red. Lively, pure aromas of red berries, minerals, potpourri and spicecake. Silky and spicy in the mouth, with impressive intensity and a graceful quality to the vibrant raspberry and floral pastille flavors. Finishes tangy, floral and long, leaving mineral and red fruit notes behind. This variety is originally from Portugal and is considered indigenous to Spain's northwest but is virtually extinct now.
92 points
Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri
2008 Rioja Blanco($80)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(a crazy, barrel-fermented blend of garnacha blanca, roussanne, marsanne, viognier, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, petit graciano and moscatel): Green-tinged gold. Pungent, highly expressive aromas of melon, quinine, ginger and toasty lees, with a kiss of oak spice. Offers impressive density and richness but also energetic cut, displaying highly complex flavors of mango, candied citrus fruits and exotic spices. Finishes very long, spicy and smooth, with resonating ginger and orange notes.
92 points
Vina Sastre
2008 Ribera Del Duero Crianza($33)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(aged in 100% new French oak): Bright violet color. Aromas of red berry preserves, Asian spices and woodsmoke, with a sexy floral quality in the background. Juicy, penetrating red and dark berry flavors show excellent clarity and sneaky depth. Smooth, open-knit and fruit-driven, finishing with very good lift and persistence. There will be no Pago de Santa Cruz or Pesus bottled from the 2008 vintage so all the estate's best fruit wound up here.
91 points
Adegas A Coroa
2010 Godello Valdeorras($23)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Green-tinged gold. A complex, fragrant bouquet of poached pear, melon and orange zest, along with a bright mineral overtone. Succulent orchard fruit and honeydew flavors are brightened by zesty lemon peel and mineral qualities and pick up a hint of white pepper on the back. Lithe bit powerful, with excellent finishing cut.
91 points
Ameztoi
2010 Txakoli Getariako Txakolina($21)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Pale straw. Intense, mineral-accented aromas of grapefruit, lime pith, ginger and quinine, along with a fresh floral quality. Taut and nervy, with bright citrus zest flavors complemented by intense mineral and floral notes and building spiciness. The citrus and mineral notes repeat on the racy, persistent finish.
91 points
Conde de Hervias
2008 Mencos Rioja Crianza($25)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(100% tempranillo): Bright ruby-red. Vibrant raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by blood orange and potpourri nuances. Fresh, incisive red fruit flavors show an exotic floral pastille quality and are nively lifted by juicy acidity. An elegant, precise Rioja that finishes with excellent tangy cut and persistence.
91 points
Dominio de Bebei
2008 Lapola Ribeira Sacra Blanco($35)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(80% godello, with dona blanca, torrontes and loureira): Bright yellow. Vibrant nose displays pure citrus fruit, quince and floral scents, with a spicy overtone. Deep and powerful but taut, with nervy acidity framing and enlivening the sappy citrus, quince and floral flavors. Finishes very long, tangy and dry, with fresh acidity and lingering citrus notes.
91 points
Bodegas Ostatu
2006 Rioja Reserva($35)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(100% tempranillo): Opaque ruby. Spicy cherry and dark berry aromas, with incisive licorice and floral accents adding complexity. Spicy cherry and blackberry flavors show very good depth and energy, and a seamless texture. Finishes nervy and sweet, with lingering spice and floral notes. Very pretty wine, and delicious right now.
91 points
Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri
2007 Rioja ($39)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(90% tempranillo and 5% each of graciano and garnacha): Vivid purple. Exotic, oak-accented aromas of cherry-vanilla, cassis, licorice and dark chocolate. Deep and broad, with highly expressive dark fruit compote and candied licorice flavors framed by youthful tannins. Smooths out nicely on the finish, which clings with serious tenacity and smoky persistence. This will be even better in a couple of years.
91 points
Uriondo Ibarretxe Zorriketa
2010 Bizkaiko Txakolina($19)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Green-tinged yellow. Citrus zest, beeswax and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by dusty minerals and quinine. Racy, sharply focused pear and quince flavors pick up a refreshing lime zest quality with air. Brisk and very pure, finishing with excellent lift and mineral-driven thrust.
91 points
Finca Vina Mein
2010 Ribeiro($23)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(80% treixadura, 10% godello, 5% loureiro and the rest albarino, torrontes, albilla and caino): Pale yellow-gold. Fresh melon and fig aromas are complicated by notes of peach pit and licorice. Impressively complex and lithe, with penetrating citrus and pit fruit flavors braced by dusty minerals. An herbal note builds with air and carries through the long, dry, sharply focused finish.
91 points
Vina Sastre
2009 Ribera Del Duero Rosado($21)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Bright purple. Highly aromatic bouquet displays cassis, boysenberry, anise and black cardamom, plus a hint of vanilla. Ripe, rich and supple, with a seamless texture and energetic flavors of dark berries, candied licorice and mocha. The long, seamless finish features an exotic floral quality and clings with impressive tenacity. This is drinking very well right now but really deserves some patience.
90 points
Amizade
2010 Mencia Monterrei($20)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Bright purple. Spicy redcurrant and cherry aromas are complemented by notes of Asian spices and minerals. Lively and precise on the palate, offering vibrant, spice-accented dark fruit flavors and a hint of rooty sassafras. The minerally finish features very good clarity and spicy length.
90 points
Conde de Hervias
2010 Mencos Rioja Blanco($16)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(100% viura): Bright straw. Vibrant pear and lemon zest scents are powerfully underscored by dusty minerals and spices. Deep, energetic orchard fruit flavors are complicated by candied citrus fruits and a subtle floral quality. Finishes clean, focused and very long.
90 points
Conde de Hervias
2009 Mencos Rioja($16)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(100% tempranillo): Bright ruby. Aromatic, complex bouquet of cherry, tobacco and dried flowers; quite classic. Juicy, dry and penetrating, with a silky texture and pliant red fruit and floral flavors. Gains power and depth with air and finishes on notes of cherry and cassis. This is a baby right now but I find it pretty delicious.
90 points
Doniene Gorrondona
2010 Tinto Bizkaiko Txakolina($28)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Bright purple. Wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes dark berries, cherry and smoky herbs, with floral and cracked pepper notes building in the glass. Juicy and precise, with very good clarity and spicy cut to its bitter cherry and blackberry flavors. Smokiness builds with air and carries through a long, spicy, precise finish. A lovely bottle of the 2005 that I drank recently reminded me a lot of a Loire Valley cabernet franc.
90 points
D. Ventura
2010 Vina Do Burato Ribeira Sacra($19)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(all mencia, no oak): Vivid purple. Cherry and black raspberry scents are perked up by cracked pepper and floral topnotes. Fresh, sharply defined red and dark berry flavors show lovely purity and precision. Firm acids and fine-grained tannins add spine and lift the sappy, persistent finish. This is a baby.
90 points
Bodegas Gurrutxaga
2010 Txakoli Gurrutxaga Bizkaiko Txakolina($21)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Greenish straw. Vibrant, racy aromas of lime pith, green apple, quince and agave. Chewy and plump in the mouth, with flavors of fresh peach, pear skin and fennel. Finishes dry, dusty and chalky, with firm acids and refreshing bitterness. This is not what most Americans expect of a Txakoli but it's a classic rendition of the wines from this subregion, whose wines tend to be fatter and richer.
90 points
Joan d'Anguera
2010 Garnatxa Montsant($17)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Vivid ruby-red. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, cherry and fresh rose, along with a sexy note of Asian spices; smells a lot like a New World pinot noir. Bright and juicy, with pliant red berry flavors and a late kick of white pepper. Offers very attractive fruity character and shows no rough edges on the long, focused finish.
90 points
Luberri
2010 Orlegi Rioja($16)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(100% tempranillo): Vivid red. Floral- and spice-accented aromas of red fruits, rose and minerals; smells like a Dujac wine. Seductively perfumed in the mouth, with juicy raspberry and floral pastille flavors dominating. Shows impressive clarity and spiciness on the long, sweet finish. This is extremely easy to drink.
90 points
Bodegas Ostatu
2008 Rioja Crianza($21)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(95% tempranillo, the rest grenache, mazuelo and graciano): Bright violet color. Aromas of cassis, cherry, licorice and mocha. Dense, alluringly sweet and juicy, with excellent concentration to its dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors. Stays sweet through the finish, which features silky, fine-grained tannins.
90 points
Xarmant
2010 Txakoli($17)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Pale gold. Lime zest , flowers and dusty minerals on the nose, plus a hint of fresh ginger. Dusty, very dry citrus fruit and strong mineral flavors are lifted by a spicy element. This very fresh, tightly wound wine finishes with excellent clarity and lingering minerality.
89 points
Amizade
2010 Godello Monterrei($18)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Greenish yellow. Pungent, nuanced nose displays tangerine, lemon pith, anise and herbs. Dense and sappy, with good breadth and depth to the lively flavors of citrus and orchard fruits. Finishes tight, spicy and energetic. At only 12.5% alcohol this drinks very easily. This project is a joint venture between importer Andre Tamers and the Do Ferreira winery.
89(+?) points
Do Ferreiro
2009 Albarino Cepas Vellas Rias Baixas($39)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
Bright gold. Very ripe, minerally aromas of apple, Meyer, lemon honey and crushed stone. Silky in texture and distinctly ripe, with powerful flavors of pit and orchard fruits and an exotic note of mango. Showing the ripe vintage character today, with resonating spice notes on the long, clinging finish. In fact, this seems a bit disjointed but this old-vines release has a fine track record for harmonizing and improving with bottle age.
89 points
Bodegas Ostatu
2010 Rioja Blanco($14)
International Wine Cellar, #158, Sept./Oct. - Josh Raynolds
(90% viura and 10% malvasia): Greenish straw. Lemon and pear on the fragrant nose. Juicy and plump in the middle, with good intensity to the flavors of lemon, orchard fruits and white pepper. Finishes with lingering pear and citrus notes and very good persistence.
Reviews from June 2011
92 points
2009 Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Rose Cuvee Speciale des Vignettes
International Wine Cellar, June 2011 - Josh Raynolds
(100% tibouren): Orange-tinged pink. Musky aromas of redcurrant, dried cherry, iodine, herbs and rose, with complicating notes of star anise and cinnamon; this is really complex! Rich and palate-staining, with impressive depth to its bitter red fruit and herb flavors; takes on suave mineral and floral pastille qualities with air. Intriguing and singular rose, finishing with strong grip and spicy persistence.
91 points
2009 Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Rose
International Wine Cellar, June 2011 - Josh Raynolds
(100% tibouren): Pale orange. Pungent aromas of dried lemon, orange zest, herbs and spices. Fleshy and silky in texture, offering spicy citrus and redcurrant flavors, with herbal and mineral undertones. The smooth, penetrating finish repeats the herbal note and clings with serious tenacity and a hint of smoke. This would be great with fresh or aged goat or sheep's milk cheeses, especially the Corsican Brin d'Amour that is coated in dried herbs.
90 points
2010 Bodegas Gurrutxaga Txakoli Rose Txakolina de Bizkaiko
International Wine Cellar, June 2011 - Josh Raynolds
Light orange-pink. Fresh red berries, spices and minerals on the expressive nose. Bright and tightly wound, offering intense, mineral-driven flavors of blood orange and wild red berries. Balanced and pure rose with excellent finishing clarity, cut and length. This checks in at 10.5% alcohol and is absurdly easy to drink.
Reviews from the Sept/Oct 2010 issue.
2006 Vina Sastre Pesus Ribera del Duero
($750; 80% tempranillo, with cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Inky purple. Brooding aromas of dark fruits and floral oils, with complicating notes of licorice, incense and smoky Indian spices and a slow-building minerality. Broad, palate-staining blackberry and cassis flavors are firmed by zesty mineral and spice notes, with candied violet and anise qualities emerging on the back half. The spiciness carries through the very long, sweet, expansive finish. This wine kept changing in the glass and never shut down. 95 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
1999 Vina Sastre Pago de Santa Cruz Ribera del Duero Gran Reserva
($119) Ruby-red. Sexy, expansive aromas of cherry-vanilla, blueberry, spicecake and potpourri. Lush, palate-coating dark fruit flavors display liqueur-like depth and sweetness but are unexpectedly energetic, with notes of zesty minerals and candied flowers adding complexity. The floral note resonates on the endless, juicy, sharply focused finish. Sastre thinks that when this wine is mature, "in about 10 or 15 more years," it will smell and taste a lot like a Barolo. 94 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2006 Dominio do Bibei Mencia Lacima Ribeira Sacra
($67; 100% mencia) Inky ruby. Intensely perfumed, mineral-dominated bouquet of black raspberry, smoky minerals, dried flowers and licorice, plus a hint of black cardamom. A real mineral bath on the palate, offering penetrating dark berry flavors and a sexy floral pastille quality, with slow-mounting smokiness and wonderful clarity. Very pure and precise wine with excellent finishing vivacity and lingering sweetness. 93 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 D. Ventura Vina Caneiro Ribeira Sacra
($30) Vivid ruby. Highly perfumed, exotic aromas of strawberry and raspberry preserves, Asian spices, rose and white pepper. More vibrant than the excellent 2007 version, offering juicy red berry flavors and suggestions of candied flowers and cinnamon. Very pure wine with impressive finishing cut and precision. None of the D. Ventura wines see any oak. 92 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Emilio Rojo Ribeiro
($65; a blend of treixadura, loureiro, lado, albarino and torrontes; no oak) Bright straw. Intense, mineral-accented aromas of lemon, lime, green apple and melon, with sexy floral and herbal notes gaining power with air. Vibrant and concentrated, displaying juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a strong undercurrent of salty minerals. Fleshier than the 2008, showing more depth and finishing power and leaving sappy pear and apple notes behind. This is delicious right now. 92 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Emilio Rojo Ribeiro
($65) Pale yellow. Exotic, high-pitched bouquet of lime zest, lemongrass, dusty minerals and cinnamon. Nervy citrus flavors are complemented by baking spices and honeysuckle, with an intense core of minerality contributing to the impression of razor-sharp clarity. The dry finish features lingering notes of citrus fruits and spices. 92 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2005 Luberri M.A. Rioja
($31) Vivid ruby. Exotic aromas of cherry compote, blackberry preserves and vanilla, with slow-building florality. Broad, palate-staining dark fruit flavors are velvety in texture, picking up suggestions of licorice and fruitcake with air. Quite rich but surprisingly light on its feet, displaying very good finishing clarity and lingering notes of vanilla and floral pastilles. This is drinking really well now. All of these wines are 100% tempranillo. 92 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2007 Vina Sastre Crianza Ribera del Duero
($33; all new French oak) Bright ruby. Complex, seductively perfumed nose melds raspberry, cherry-cola, Asian spices and dark chocolate. Dense, sappy and focused, with allspice, vanilla and mineral tones to go with the powerful red fruit. Finishes with broad, palate-dusting tannins and excellent persistence. Owner Jesus Sastre told me that he wasn't crazy for 2007 so there's only one wine: all the Pago de Santa Cruz and Pesus juice is in here. It shows. 92 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Ameztoi Rubentis Getariako Txakolina
($19; 10.5% alcohol) Pale, bright straw. Pure, vibrant aromas of ginger, quinine, lemongrass and white flowers. Juicy and bracingly mineral-driven, with lovely intensity and cut to the flavors of citrus zest, honeysuckle and white pepper. The bracing, impressively persistent finish leaves bitter citrus and spice notes behind. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Arabako Txakolina Xarmant Txakolina
($17; 11.5% alcohol) Pale yellow. A complex, floral bouquet evokes honeysuckle, green tea, lemongrass and lime, plus a hint of white pepper. Racy and pure, with tangy citrus and mineral flavors and a weightier note of pear in the mid-palate. Incisive wine, but also shows surprising heft and excellent finishing clarity. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 D. Ventura Pena do Lobo Ribeira Sacra
($23) Vivid purple. Intensely floral scents of red and dark berries, spicecake, potpourri and minerals. Sappy dark fruit flavors are incisive and pure, with notes of bitter cherry and anise gaining strength with air. The mineral quality adds lift and a delicate touch and helps to extend and sharpen the sweet, floral-dominated finish. This will age on balance. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 D. Ventura Pens do Lobo Ribeira Sacra
($23) Bright ruby. Sexy red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by smoky herbs and minerals. Lively raspberry and cherry flavors deliver solid punch but there's also a weightless character to this wine that reminds me of pinot noir. The finish repeats the sweet raspberry note and lingers with excellent persistence. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Do Ferreiro Albarino Rias Baixas
($27) Light gold. Precise, high-pitched aromas of orange zest, pear, melon, honeysuckle and salty minerals. Taut and pure, offering zesty citrus and underripe orchard fruit flavors and a sweeter note of honeydew. Finishes with excellent clarity and juicy, melony persistence. I like this wine's mix of fleshiness and vivacity. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2007 Dominio do Bibei Lapola Ribeira Sacra Blanco
($38; a blend based on 80% godello) Light gold. Mineral-driven orange and green apple aromas, with lively mineral and spice notes gaining strength with air. Juicy, penetrating citrus and orchard fruit flavors show sneaky depth and become more floral with air. A suave honeysuckle note builds in the glass and carries through the long, sappy finish. This is complex enough to drink now with pleasure but the wine's structure and tension bode well for a few more years of aging. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2006 Dominio do Bibei Lapena Ribeira Sacra Blanco
($67; 100% godello) Bright yellow. Pungent aromas of peach skin, pear and chamomile, with smoky lees and minerals adding complexity. Pure, gently chewy orchard fruit flavors are braced by dusty minerals, picking up a hint of citrus marmalade with air. Blends richness and energy smoothly and finishes with very good stony cut and lingering lemon pith bitterness. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2006 Dominio do Bibei Lalama Ribeira Sacra
($38; 85% mencia, 7% garnacha tintorerra, 6% brancellao and 2% mouraton) Deep red. High-pitched red fruits and flowers on the nose, with a spicy note gaining strength with air; smells like pinot. Mineral-driven redcurrant and raspberry flavors show very good clarity and precision, with a late note of pungent herbs adding complexity. Juicy and subtly sweet on the red fruit-dominated finish. Very graceful wine, and delicious now. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2006 Joan d’Anguera Bugader Montsant
($74; 95% syrah and 5% garnacha) Bright ruby. Sexy, complex bouquet evokes blackberry, cherry-cola, spicecake and dried violet. Deeply pitched dark berry flavors are given spine by juicy acidity and pick up a smoky quality with air. Tannins come in late, adding grip to the long, spicy, mineral-laced finish. I'd let this backward wine rest for at least five years. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2005 Bodegas Ostatu Rioja Reserva
($33; 100% tempranillo) Inky ruby. Powerful cassis and cherry aromas are complicated by notes of smoked meat and dried flowers. Livelier red fruits join the darker ones on the palate, with licorice and black pepper adding complexity. Pretty serious Rioja, with chewy tannins adding grip to the very long, smoky finish. This changed a lot in the glass; some decanting time will allow this wine's deep fruit to come forward. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Uriondo Ibarretxe Zorriketa Bizkaiko Txakolina
($17) Pale straw. Intensely perfumed bouquet evokes sea salt, lime zest and wet stone. Mineral-driven citrus flavors are tightly wound and impressively precise, with a strong salty overtone and excellent clarity. Finishes with impressive stony cut and tangy persistence. There's zero fat on these bones. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Vina Sastre Tinto Ribera del Duero
($20) Vivid ruby. Pungent aromas of black raspberry, cherry pit, anise and violet. Brighter red fruits on the palate, with sexy floral pastille qualities adding complexity. Juicy, precise and seamless wine with excellent finishing clarity and mineral-driven persistence. 91 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Adegas A Coroa Godello Valdeorras
($23; no oak) Light yellow. Fragrant nose combines subtle tangerine and floral aromas with notes of crushed stone and white pepper. Juicy and pure, with a spicy quality to the palate-staining citrus, green apple, floral and mineral flavors. Finishes with terrific mineral cut. Given its depth and flavor intensity, this wine conveys surprising delicacy. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Conde de Hervias Mencos Rioja
($16) Bright violet. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe cherry, cassis and smoky Indian spices. The palate shows livelier raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a late note of cracked pepper. Juicy and precise wine with good finishing bite and sweet persistence. This aged in 100% new French oak but doesn't show it. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2007 Conde de Hervias [Mencos] Rioja Crianza
($24) Ruby-red. Medicinal red fruits and herbs on the nose, along with a note of vanilla. Spicy redcurrant and cherry flavors are light in body but show good depth of flavor, with a late touch of blood orange adding vibrancy. Elegant and precise wine with a light touch. Finishes with very good clarity and lingering sweetness. Both this and the 2008 Mencos are 100% tempranillo. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 D. Ventura Vina do Burato Ribeira Sacra
($20) Bright violet. Redcurrant, black raspberry and floral aromas are complicated by a whiff of graphite. Shows very good sweetness and energy to its spicy, bright red fruit flavors. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and intense spiciness. This pure and exhilarating wine will be extremely flexible with food. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Doniene Gorrondona Tinto Bizkaiko Txakolina
($28; mostly hondarribi beltza) Vivid ruby. High-pitched red berry and herbal aromas, with a subtle floral quality in the background. Smoky cherry and red berry flavors are lifted by zesty acidity and complicated by notes of licorice and candied violet. The floral and herbal notes repeat on the taut, nervy finish. Reminds me of a racy, elegant Chinon. This comes from vines planted on pure slate. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Bodegas y Vinedos Garciarevalo Tres Olmos Verdejo Rueda
($17) Greenish straw. A complex bouquet displays scents of lemon zest, melon and white pepper, with a sexy floral quality coming up with air. Juicy, precise citrus and pear flavors gain sweetness in the glass and are nicely braced by tangy minerality, which picks up steam on the back half. A suave blend of depth and vivacity here; the finish is bright, incisive and very long. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Joan d’Anguera Garnatxa Montsant
($18) Bright ruby. Vibrant, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, candied cherry and rose, plus a hint of white pepper. Pure, racy red fruits and a sexy floral quality on the seamless palate. Expands on the finish while maintaining a bright, lively character. This is delicious right now. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Joan d’Anguera Finca l’Argata Montsant
($30; 40% each of syrah and garnacha plus 20% cabernet sauvignon) Vivid red. Mineral-accented black raspberry and cherry aromas are complemented by a hint of cracked pepper and a building floral quality. Lively and tightly wound, fleshing out in the mid-palate to show sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors and a touch of candied licorice. Turns more tangy on the finish, leaving behind sweet red berry and Asian spice notes. The garnacha is leading today. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2007 Luberri Biga Rioja Crianza
($22) Ruby-red. Wild red fruits and Asian spices on the nose, with a peppery element emerging with air. Suave and vibrant, with an attractive lightness of touch and spicy kick to the flavors of raspberry, cherry, white pepper and allspice. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and suave lingering perfume. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2007 Bodegas Ostatu Rioja
($23; 90% tempranillo and 10% graciano) Vivid ruby. High-pitched, seductively perfumed aromas of raspberry and potpourri, with a sexy note of Asian spices. Sweet, silky and seamless, offering lively red fruit flavors and hints of rose and spicecake. Open-knit and delicious now, finishing with good clarity and persistence. This is really successful for an entry-level wine from '07. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Vina Sastre Flavus Blanco Vino de Mesa
($20; 100% old-vine jaen, which is local dialect for the palomino variety; no oak) Pale yellow. Intensely spicy aromas of dried pear and white peach, with a strong undercurrent of minerals. Dry and nervy, with expanding citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a jolt of white pepper. The spiciness builds on the finish, which features a salty mineral tone and very good juicy length. Really interesting wine, but there isn't a lot of it. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Vina Sastre Ribera del Duero Rosado
($16; 100% tempranillo) Bright pink. Raspberry and blood orange on the nose, with sexy floral and spice notes gaining strength with air. Juicy, sharply defined red fruit and citrus flavors are dry and gripping but not at all hard. The tangy finish shows very good, mineral-driven persistence. 90 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Joan d’Anguera Planella Montsant
($22; 40% mazuelo and 20% each of syrah, garnatxa and cabernet sauvignon) Inky ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of dark berry liqueur, black cardamom and licorice, perked up by a spicy note of black pepper. Full-bodied, chewy blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors are slow to unfold, eventually offering hint of dried violet and energizing spiciness. Finishes with solid grip and an echo of plum jam. Promising but in need of patience. 89(+?) points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Finca Vina Mein Ribeiro
($19; mostly treixadura; no oak) Pale yellow. Aromas of lemon zest, quince, fresh-cut grass and white flowers. Juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors are lifted by floral and grassy nuances. Finishes with a firm edge of acidity that adds spine and grip to the sappy fruit flavors. 89 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Luberri Seis de Luberri Rioja
($18) Bright ruby. Youthful, slow-to-open nose eventually offers up scents of dark berries, cherry pit and black pepper. Then high-pitched and spicy in the mouth, with chewy red and dark berry flavors and a touch of bitter cherry. Silky tannins add shape to the spicy, persistent finish. This tightly wound wine needs some more bottle age. 88(+?) points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2008 Biurko Gorri Arbanta Rioja
($14; 100% tempranillo) Vivid red. Bright aromas of raspberry, flowers and baking spices. Nervy and penetrating, with a firm spine of acidity adding lift to the wine's spicy red fruit flavors. Finishes tangy, spicy and precise. 88 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Bodegas y Vinedos Garciarevalo Casamaro Rueda
($12; 90% verdejo and 10% viura) Pale gold. Spicy, high-pitched aromas of grapefruit, green apple and lemon thyme. Dry and focused, offering nervy citrus flavors and deeper orchard fruit qualities. On the austere side but I like this wine's clarity and finishing cut. 88 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
2009 Bodegas Gurrutxaga Txakoli Gurrutxaga Bizkaiko Txakolina
($19) Greenish-yellow color. Fresh apple and pear aromas are lifted by notes of chalk and white pepper. Suppler and rounder than most Txakolis, displaying a silky texture and moderately concentrated orchard fruit and citrus flavors. Turns drier on the finish, clinging with good tenacity. 88 points. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2010)
Reviews from the Sept/Oct 2009 issue.
A Coroa
2008 Adegas A Coroa Godello Valdeorras
89 Points
($23) Pale gold. Sharply focused citrus and green apple aromas, with hints of anise and talc-y minerals. Dry and taut on entry, then gains flesh with air, offering gently sweet orchard fruit and melon flavors and good lift. The persistent, refreshingly bitter finish repeats the anise note. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Ameztoi
2008 Ameztoi Rubentis Getariako Txakolina
90 Points
($19) Pale straw. Lime, grapefruit and white flowers on the nose, with a spicy mineral underpinning. Dry and sharply focused, offering tangy citrus and green apple flavors and a strong note of bitter quinine. A deeper pear skin note arrives on the finish, which is nervy, focused and very persistent.- J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Xarmant
2008 Arabako Txakolina Xarmant Arabako Txakoli
91 Points
($17) Light yellow. Impressively complex bouquet of grapefruit, lemon thyme, tarragon and white pepper. Dry, racy and sharply focused, offering lively citrus and green apple flavors and a strong herbal note. Finishes with impressive clarity and mineral thrust, with the herbal element recurring. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Do Ferreiro
2007 Do Ferreiro Rebisaca Rias Baixas
88 Points
($25; 75% albarino and 25% treixadura) Pale, green-tinged straw. Ripe aromas of grapefruit and lime pith and pear, with a spicy mineral underpinning. The palate offers fleshy orchard fruit flavors with good citric nerve. Comes across as a bit uncompromising, with strong, stony bite to the grapefruit pith and citrus peel flavors. Narrows out slightly on the finish, which repeats the lime note. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2007 Do Ferreiro Albarino Rias Baixas
91 Points
($27) Light gold. Intense, mineral-driven aromas of citrus and orchard fruits, with complicating notes of tarragon and sage. Stony, finely etched lime and orange flavors are refreshingly bitter and precise. Racy but juicy, with strong finishing minerality, a jolt of white pepper on the back and very good persistence. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2007 Do Ferreiro Albarino Cepas Vellas Rias Baixas
92 Points
($39) Green-tinged gold. Pungent, expansive scents of candied lime, melon, pear skin and honeysuckle are complemented by notes of talc, quinine and smoky herbs. Juicy and penetrating, offering sweet citrus and orchard fruit flavors and an exotic note of candied rose. Becomes more mineral-inflected with air and finishes with outstanding clarity, spiciness and tangy persistence. A strong showing for what is consistently one of Spain's finest white wines. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
D. Ventura
2007 D. Ventura Pena do Lobo Ribeira Sacra
91 Points
($23; 100% mencia) Vivid ruby color. Intensely perfumed aromas of cherry, blackcurrant, licorice and violet, with a kick of black pepper adding vivacity. Lively and sharply focused, offering gently sweet red and dark berry flavors and a hint of bitter cherry skin. Nicely blends power with energy, finishing with mineral-driven persistence and a lingering note of blackcurrant. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2007 D. Ventura Vina Caneiro Ribeira Sacra
91 Points
($26; 100% mencia) Bright violet. Deeper-pitched than the Pena do Lobo, showing scents of blackberry, soy sauce, black olive and smoke, along with a spicy undertone. This very fresh wine offers sweet dark berry and cherry flavors and a strong mineral quality. Chewy, spicy and broad on the finish, with the blackberry and olive notes repeating. I'd come back to this in another couple of years. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Emilio Rojo
2007 Emilio Rojo Ribeiro
90 Points
($53) Very light yellow. Pungent aromas of pear skin, yellow plum, sage and lemon thyme, with a musky mineral undertone. Deep, powerful orchard fruit flavors are braced by smoky minerals, whish add lift and cut. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with persistent exotic floral and herbal notes. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Viña Mein
2008 Finca Vina Mein Ribeiro
88 Points
($19) Bright yellow-gold. Spicy orchard and citrus fruits on the nose, with a note of licorice coming up with air. Dry and energetic, offering zesty lemon and pink grapefruit flavors and a sweeter melon note on the back. Finishes juicy and persistent, with a lingering citrus note. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Bodegas Gurrutxaga
2008 Bodegas Gurrutxaga Txakoli Bizkaiko Txakolina
89 Points
($19) Bright straw. Spicy pear and honeydew aromas are complicated by talc and anise. Juicy and pliant, with gently sweet orchard fruit flavors and good back-end lift. Marries ripe orchard fruit qualities to racier citrus notes, and finishes with good breadth and mineral cut. Like Txakoli with training wheels. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Joan d'Anguera
2007 Joan d’Anguera Planella Montsant
90 Points
($22) Vivid ruby. Powerful aromas of black raspberry and blueberry, with notes of licorice and violet adding depth. Chewy dark berry flavors gain sweetness with aeration and pick up a spicy note of cracked pepper. Finishes with solid punch and a strong note of tangy minerality. This will be even better with another year in the bottle. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2007 Joan d’Anguera Finca L’Argata Montsant
91 Points
($30) Bright red. Highly perfumed bouquet displays raspberry, cherry, dried rose and white pepper, plus a strong mineral overtone. Juicy and sweet, offering tightly focused red berry flavors and showing no rough edges. The gently smoky finish strongly echoes the raspberry note and hangs on with impressive tenacity and focus. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Luberri
2007 Luberri Seis de Luberri Rioja
89 Points
($18) Bright ruby. Lively aromas of raspberry, blackberry and zesty spices. Concentrated red and dark berry flavors display good juicy intensity, with dusty tannins framing the back end. The lively finish leaves behind tangy blackberry skin and floral pastille notes. This very fresh wine is delicious now. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2006 Luberri Biga Rioja
90 Points
($22) Deep, bright red. Vibrant red and dark berry scents are complicated by exotic vanilla and cola nuances. Impressively fresh cherry and black raspberry flavors stain the palate, picking up a candied licorice quality on the back end. Gains weight with air while maintaining vivacity and finishes with an echo of sweet vanilla. Seductive now but I'd wait a year or two for the oak to integrate. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Bodegas Ostatu
2008 Bodegas Ostatu Rioja Blanco
89 Points
($15) Greenish yellow. Pungent aromas of poached pear, yellow plum and melon, with complicating notes of honey and lime zest. At once rich and energetic, offering lush orchard fruit flavors and a bracing note of citrus. The juicy, minerally finish packs solid punch. This will be very flexible at the table. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2006 Bodegas Ostatu Rioja Crianza
89 Points
($23) Ruby-red. Red- and blackcurrant aromas complicated by floral and herbal nuances. Rich cherry and blackberry flavors are a bit brooding but gain sweetness and energy with air. The long, chewy finish features dark fruit and licorice qualities and noteworthy cling. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2004 Bodegas Ostatu Rioja Reserva
91 Points
($33) Cherry and dark berries on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice, dried rose, black tea and smoky minerals. Rich but energetic, offering spicy dark berry flavors and mounting sweetness. More mineral-driven on the finish, which strongly echoes the dark berry and licorice notes. This is still quite youthful. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Viña Sastre
2007 Vina Sastre Tinto Ribera del Duero
89 Points
($20) Inky ruby. Fresh blackberry and cherry aromas are complicated by licorice, cocoa powder and fresh rose. Juicy, energetic dark berry flavors are framed by silky tannins and gain sweetness with air. This very fresh wine finishes with good clarity and lingering sweetness. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2006 Vina Sastre Crianza Ribera del Duero
91 Points
($33) Vivid ruby. Heady aromas of red and dark berry preserves, potpourri and Asian spices, with a strong mineral undertone. Sweet raspberry and blueberry flavors stain the palate, and are given spine by zesty minerality. Quite juicy and penetrating, and vibrant and spicy on the back end. As sexy as this is right now, I'd bet on it gaining complexity with a few more years of bottle age. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
2005 Vina Sastre Pago de Santa Cruz Ribera del Duero
93 Points
($84) Opaque ruby. Pungent, spicy blackberry and cherry-vanilla on the nose, with sexy potpourri and smoky mineral elements gaining power with air. Deep, sweet dark fruit flavors coat the palate and are firmed by a zesty mineral quality. The floral and spice notes build on the finish, which delivers impressive punch and shows no rough edges. Already quite suave and complex. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Uriondo
2008 Uriondo Ibarretxe Zorriketa Bizkaiko Txakolina
91 Points
($17) Greenish straw. Spicy pear and lime aromas are complemented by notes of pungent herbs and minerals. Tightly wound and nervy, with a strong mineral underpinning to its tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Very refreshing and pure, with strong finishing lift and impressive clarity. If you say this wine's name three times while looking in a mirror Egyptian demons might rise up. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Bodegas y Vinedos Garciarevalo
2008 Bodegas y Vinedos Garciarevalo Casamaro Rueda
89 Points
($13) Pale gold. Spicy citrus and pear aromas are complemented by notes of salty minerals and herbs. Tangy and sharply focused, with racy lemon and lime flavors and a nervy mineral underpinning. This bracing wine drinks well by itself and would be great with raw oysters. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
Yunquera
2008 Yunquera Albillo Blanco Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon
88 Points
($19) Greenish yellow. Spicy lime, pear and green apple aromas and flavors are complicated by dusty minerals and herbs. Concentrated and precise, with a talc-y impression and very good spicy cut. The lime note repeats on the nervy finish. - J.R.(International Wine Cellar Sept/Oct 2009)
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Producers
>A Coroa
>Ameztoi
>Arbanta
>Avinyó
>Chéreau Carré
>Conde de Hervías
>Do Ferreiro
>D. Ventura
>Dominio do Bibei
>Doniene Gorrondona
>El Maestro Sierra
>Emilio Rojo
>Garciarevalo
>Gurrutxaga
>Gutierrez Colosia
>Joan d'Anguera
>La Cigarrera
>Luberri
>Mencos
>Ostatu
>Trabanco
>Uriondo
>Viña Sastre
>Xarmant
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