The Best New Wines from Spain - Sept/Oct 2008
By Josh Raynolds
Reviews by Josh Raynolds
Our second installment of new Spanish releases, like last issue’s coverage, is chock full of remarkable bargains at all price points. Even with the dollar just off its lows against the Euro I cannot think of a single region in the world that offers as much bang for the wine buck as Spain. This is mostly attributable to the fact that Spain is rich in old vines, with most of these vineyards situated in regions that offer virtually care-free growing conditions (Yecla and Jumilla notably) and planted to user-friendly varieties such as garnacha (grenache). Usually made in an exuberant, fruit-forward, low-tannin style, these wines are typically bottled early and shipped to market within a year of the harvest. They do not require extended or even mid-term cellaring to express their charms. Indeed, the vast majority of Spain’s under-$15 wines are made to be drunk on release, although giving them a few years of bottle aging usually does no harm, as el cheapo bottles from 2001 and the late 1990s have shown.
At the upper end, I found a lot to like from the regions that are noted for producing Spain’s most complex wines: Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Priorat. There are also plenty of noteworthy wines at the high end coming out of previously obscure (for Americans) regions such as Bierzo. While the best wines are not inexpensive, when I look at the prices commanded by big- and even not-so-big-name Bordeaux, Burgundy and Napa Valley wines, I have to admit that most of these bottles look like bargains. That is, if you can accept the concept that any wine selling for more than $50 a bottle can ever really be considered a good value.
Also exciting are the more serious bottlings being produced from regions that have mostly been known for making cheap and cheerful wines but that boast well-situated vineyards and ancient vines. It will be interesting to see how high-end boutique wines from Calatayud, Jumilla, La Mancha and Campo de Borja, often made by famous wineries or winemakers from more lauded regions, will be accepted by a market that has been trained to think that only the marquee regions are allowed to command over $20 a bottle, or much more, in the competitive American marketplace. The quality of these wines can be impressive, and what I am seeing bodes well for the future. But I get a nagging sense of déjà-vu as I consider the pain that producers in Australia and Chile are currently experiencing as they try to convince the world that there is more going on in their cellars than industrial production of high-volume, low-price guzzling wine.
Ameztoi
90 Points
2007 Ameztoi Txakoli
Getariako Txakolina
$22; 90% hondarrabi zuri and 10% hondarrabi beltza, the latter a red grape
Pale yellow. Spicy lemon and pear aromas are underscored by talc and quinine. Pleasant bitter, light-bodied citrus and green apple flavors pick up salty minerality with air. Refreshing and extremely easy to drink, this would be great with a light shrimp or clam dish. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
91 Points
2007 Ameztoi Upelean Hartzitua
Getariako Txakolina
$22; 90% hondarrabi zuri and 10% hondarrabi beltza; just 10.5% alcohol
Limpid straw color. Lime, grapefruit and talc on the nose, with subtle jasmine and white pepper qualities. Light and refreshingly bitter, with precise citrus and mineral flavors braced by juicy acidity. Taut and incisive on the spicy, gently tart finish. I get more depth and texture here than I did from the previous wine. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
90 Points
2007 Ameztoi Rubentis
Getariako Txakolina
$22; a 50/50 blend of hondarrabis zuri and beltza
Pale pink. Fresh redcurrant, strawberry and lime aromas are complicated by chalky minerals and white flowers. Light and crisp, with concentrated red berry and ruby-red grapefruit flavors and gentle back-end minerality. More gentle than usual for this wine but far from soft, with sweet finishing notes of strawberry and raspberry and a late jolt of lemon zest. This is way too easy to drink. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Xarmant
91 Points
2007 Xarmant
Arabako Txakolina
$19
Bright straw color. Pink grapefruit and lime on the nose, with a strong chalky component gaining power. Citrus flavors are refreshingly bitter and precise, with an exotic saffron quality on the back end. There's almost painful concentration to this light-bodied wine, and the finish is dry, incisive and persistent. This would be great with oysters. -J.R. (IWC 9/08)
Avinyó
88 Points
2007 Vi D'Agulla
Penedès
$17; 100% petit gran muscat; 10.5% alcohol
Pale straw with a light froth. Pungent lemon-lime and green apple aromas are complemented by white flowers and quinine. Brisk and sharply focused, with racy citrus flavors and good back-end minerality. Clean, refreshing and light in body, finishing with good clarity and cut. This is extremely easy to drink. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
88 Points
2007 Vi D'Agulla Rosado
Penedès
$17; 100% merlot
Bright pink, with a gentle CO2 fizz. Redcurrant and cherry on the nose, with a kiss of pungent herbs. Light and crisp, with bitter red berry and cherry skin flavors and a jolt of minerals on the back end. Straightforward and refreshing, this would be excellent with young goat or sheep cheeses. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Arbanta
88 Points
2007 Arbanta
Rioja
$15
Inky ruby. Grapey dark fruit aromas are youthfully reductive but quickly freshen up to display deep raspberry and blackberry character. Light-bodied red and dark fruit flavors are firmed by palate-numbing black pepper and clove, with no obvious tannins showing. A clean, brisk wine that would be good with a light chill. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Do Ferreiro
93 Points
2006 Albariño Cepas Vellas
Rias Baixas
$39
Pale chartreuse-green color. Strikingly complex nose displays fresh lime, herb and white flowers, along with dusty minerals and a suave note of anise. Light in body but concentrated, with intensely spicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and mounting richness. Leaves sweet melon and nervy lime notes behind on the long, chewy finish. A very impressive wine with admirable balance, clarity and persistence. I'd love to see this in five years. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Doniene Gorrondona
90 Points
2007 Gorrondona Tinto
Bizkaiko Txakolina
$30; 100% hondarrabi beltza
Bright red. Peppery redcurrant, cherry and herbal aromas reminded me of Chinon. Firm on entry, but quickly fleshes out to offer sweet strawberry and raspberry flavors, along with a hint of bitter cherry skin. Light in body but packs impressive flavor punch and finishes with very good focus and lift. Those who demand fat in their red wines will not go for this. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Garciarevalo
89 Points
2007 Casamaro Blanco
Rueda
$14; a 90/10 blend of verdejo and Viura
Light yellow, with a faint CO2 haze. Pungent lemon and pear aromas are complemented by subtle floral and herbal qualities, picking up dusty minerals with air. Medium-weight orchard fruit and melon flavors are given bite by bitter quinine and lemon zest. Becomes deeper and sweeter on the finish but retains very good energy, leaving Meyer lemon and candied pear notes behind. I wouldn't hesitate to serve this with richer seafood dishes. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Gurrutxaga
90 Points
2007 Gurrutxaga Txakoli
Bizkaiko Txakolina
$22
Limpid straw. Racy lemon and pink grapefruit aromas are complicated by white flowers, dusty minerals and fresh herbs. Tightly wound and strikingly pure, offering energetic citrus and green apple flavors underscored by tangy minerality. Refreshingly precise and nervy wine with outstanding finishing clarity and cut. I could drink this all day long. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
91 Points
2007 Gurrutxaga Txakoli Rosé
Bizkaiko Txakolina
$22
Bright pink color. Pungent strawberry and peach pit aromas are complicated by fresh herbs and white flowers. Fleshy red berry flavors are given a firm edge by dusty minerals, which add grip and back-end bite. Gains weight with air, picking up a deeper bitter cherry quality. The cherry quality carries through the very long, chewy finish, which is refreshingly dry and precise. This would work with all kinds of food, or on its own. I wish that it came in magnums. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Joan d’Anguera
89 (+?) Points
2006 Planella
Montsant
$24; 40% mazuelo and 20% each of syrah, grenache and cabernet sauvignon
Inky ruby. Powerfully scented nose displays ripe dark berries and candied plum, with an undercurrent of smoky minerals. Deep blackcurrant and cherry flavors are still a bit primary but flesh out with air. Turns sweeter on the finish, leaving behind a suave floral quality behind. I'd wait a year or so to open this. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
91 Points
2006 Finca L'Argata
Montsant
$32; 40% each of syrah and grenache, with 20% cabernet sauvignon
Saturated ruby-red. Powerfully scented nose offers sexy black raspberry and cherry-vanilla aromas, along with sweet tobacco and floral qualities. Broad red and dark berry and cola flavors are reined in by silky tannins, which add welcome focus. Nicely balances sweetness and spiciness, and finishes with very good clarity. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Luberri
90 Points
2005 Biga
Rioja
$24
Vivid red. Mineral-driven aromas of raspberry, cherry and baking spices, with a suave floral undertone. Light-bodied red berry flavors are seductively pure and sweet, with fine-grained tannins adding grip. Finishes brisk, with sneaky length and a strong echo of cracked pepper. Really intriguing wine, and sure to be flexible at the table. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Ostatu
90 Points
2007 Ostatu Blanco
Rioja
$19
Pale peach skin color. Quince, pear skin and green apple aromas are complemented by minerals and honeysuckle. Stony citrus and orchard fruit flavors are nicely focused, turning juicier with air and picking up a melon quality. Finishes on notes of dusty minerals and dried flowers, with very good clarity and persistence. This will be extremely flexible at the table. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Viña Sastre
90 Points
2005 Crianza
Ribera del Duero
$36
Deep ruby color. Ripe cherry-vanilla, black raspberry and cola on the nose; a dark chocolate note arrives with air and carries onto the palate, adding depth to the ripe dark fruit flavors. The oak comes on strong on the finish but the sweet fruit keeps pace through a long, sappy finish. Traditionalists will like this sexy wine less than I did, but I suspect that the oak will be absorbed with a few years of patience. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
93 Points
2004 Regina Vides
Ribera del Duero
$234
Opaque ruby. Exotically perfumed nose displays sexy, oak-spiced red and dark berry liqueur, floral and smoky mineral scents. Lush and creamy black raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are given spine by juicy acidity and pick up suave vanilla and cola qualities on the back end. Finishes sweet and impressively long, strongly repeating the black raspberry and floral notes. This doesn't want to let go of the palate. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
95 Points
2005 Pesus
Ribera del Duero
$750; 85% tempranillo, with cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot
Inky ruby. A kaleidoscopic bouquet runs the gamut of red and dark berries, joined by cherry-vanilla, Asian spices, cola, high-test chocolate, floral oil and smoky minerality: this smells like the spawn of a florist shop and a head shop, if they met up at a fruit stand and got acquainted over Valrhona chocolate. Deep, sweet and pure, offering luscious black raspberry, cherry and candied licorice flavors, and picking up rose and violet pastille with air. Velvety tannins add gentle grip but are overwhelmed by the powerful fruit. The minerality adds lift and urgency to the endless finish, which leaves suave berry, mocha and spice notes behind, in due time. Wow! -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
D. Ventura
90 Points
2007 Pena do Lobo
Ribeira Sacra
$25; 100% mencía
Vivid red color. Peppery red- and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by musky underbrush and minerals. Smoky redcurrant and bitter cherry on the palate, with tangy acidity contributing cut and spine. Very fresh, food-flexible wine with noteworthy finishing lift and spiciness. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
90 Points
2007 Viña do Burato
Ribeira Sacra
$21; 100% mencía
Medium red. Musky cherry and cassis on the nose, with subtle floral and mineral qualities. Juicy red fruits on the palate are framed and lifted by tangy acidity. Becomes sweeter with air, taking on a black raspberry quality and finishing with sneaky, sweet persistence. There's a pinot-like elegance here that I find appealing. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Viña Mein
89 Points
2007 Viña Mein
Ribeiro
$19; a blend based on treixadura
Light yellow, with a CO2 haze. Spicy pear and melon aromas are complemented by floral honey and herbs. Light in body but full-flavored, with deep citrus and orchard fruit complemented by slow-mounting spiciness. Finishes broad, creamy and persistent. This is concentrated enough to pair with richer fish dishes but precise and nervy enough to work alone. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
Yunquera
88 Points
2007 Yunquera Albillo Blanco
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon
$14
Pale straw color. Spicy lemon and lime aromas are dusted by talc and white flowers. Juicy citrus flavors give way to richer peach and melon with air while tangy minerals maintain focus. Finishes with a blend of nerve and pliancy, repeating the lemon and peach qualities. The albillo variety is indigenous to the Ribera del Duero area. -J.R. (International Wine Cellar 9/08)
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